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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. However, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.